A glass of something biodynamic for the lady?
April 2008 - Tonya Lailey

The LCBO carries more than 50 wines in the organic category, all Vintages selections. Fewer than half of them are plainly advertised as such, with the word organic appearing on the front label. Despite rising consumer interest in all things eco-sensitive, organic wines suffer from a stigma.

Organic wine hasn't recovered from the ignominy of the first visible and vocal representatives. Although many well-known European producers have been practicing organic viticulture for years (Chateau de Beaucastel, Chapoutier, Huet, Zind-Humbrecht) they haven't marketed their wines as organic. In fact, marketing wine as organic was and is still seen by many Europeans as undermining the integrity of the commitment. So the wines that first hit the market waving the organic banner (in the late 1980s and 90s) were typically bad wines made by small, unknown producers.

The organic/biodynamic landscape has since changed dramatically, moving from the margins to the mainstream. Fine wine producers in every wine region of the world are converting from agro-chemical treatments to organic and biodynamic methods with the expressed goal of improving the quality of their wines. Yes, the motivating factor is better wine, not a healthier environment, though I'm sure that second part feels good. And yes, more wineries have become explicit about sustainable practices.

So what is organic wine? And how is it different from biodynamic wine?

As you might imagine, the word organic is as contentious in the wine industry as it is in the business of growing food. Certification and regulation in the U.S., Canada and Europe are administered by a multitude of regional organizations with varying standards.
There is general agreement on the broad, basic principle of organic viticulture: to encourage the microbial life in the soil by not employing industrially synthesized compounds to the soil or vines for any reason, be it pest control or fertility. There's general disagreement about whether or not sulphur dioxide (a preservative and stabilizer used in wine production worldwide) should be allowed in a wine that bearsorganic on its label.

Biodynamic viticulture is based on the ideas of its progenitor Rudolf Steiner, and is regulated, for the most part, by the Demeter Association (www.demeter.net). Like organic viticulture, it advocates natural preparations and the health and balance of the soil. But biodynamism's definition of living soil goes beyond micro-organisms to cosmic energy and the relationship between planet, air and cosmos. The constellations and the lunar cycle play a role, as does dung compost and finely ground silicum buried in cow horns (www.biodynamicviticulture.com for more information).

If you believe that some of wine's beauty is derived from the particularity of a grape's flavour grown in a certain place, then you must agree that organic and biodynamic methods are compelling. After all, to varying degrees they're about cultivating the life of the place where the vines live – its microbes, indigenous plants, insects, yeasts and bacteria. Surely a vine and its fruit gain life when its environs are brimming with it. And surely that complex of life, which is particular to that place, has a character that we can identify in the composition of the grape or in the scent and behaviour of the wine.

Whatever the case, there are more and more wine producers convinced that this is so and are willing to bet money on it. Now they just need to convince consumers.

MALIVOIRE LADYBUG ROSÉ 2006 | VINTAGES 559088
750 mL bottle | $14.85 
Rose Still Table Wine.12.5% Alcohol/Vol. Sugar content: D
This is a VQA wine made in Ontario Malivoire Wine Co.
Release date: July 21, 2007

All of Malivoire's vineyards are certified organic and the wines are made in a highly energy-efficient and stylish winery facility designed on the premise of reuse.

The winery is a leader in both organic viticulture and high-quality wine production in Canada. There's little better than a bottle of well-made rosé served with slightly spicy local sausages grilled outdoors, on a crisp spring evening. It's all a delicious promise of things to come. The Malivoire Ladybug Rosé smells and tastes like so many local fruits that aren't yet ready (rhubarb, strawberries, cherries, raspberries and honeydew melon), and it manages to do this without being sweet. The barbecued sausage heralds outdoor dining and is a rich and meaty partner for the charmingly refreshing fruit. Keep in mind that this rosé is a versatile food companion. I also love serving it with grilled summer vegetables, such as eggplant and peppers from the garden, or with any fresh tomato-based pasta dish. Make sure you buy enough of this wine for those summer evenings, too.

BONTERRA CHARDONNAY (V) | VINTAGES 342436
750 mL bottle | $17.80 
White Still Table Wine.13.6% Alcohol/Vol. Sugar content: D
Made in California by Fetzer Vineyards

Bonterra wines are made from grapes grown organically on the Russian River benchlands of Mendocino County, California. The wine is fragrant, mellow and round. The fruit character includes peach, melon and banana and is typical of Chardonnay grown in warm climates. The fairly high alcohol content lends some weight. The oak treatment is judicious and discernible as a delicate note of vanilla and a fine texture. I suggest serving with a wild mushroom and spring chive quiche. Chill this wine for 15 minutes in the fridge.